Toshiba – 28mm to 32mm Vacuum Cleaner Hose Adapter Converter for $1.99

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Description: 28mm to 32mm Vacuum Cleaner Hose Adapter Converter Specification: Material ABS Color Black Max Dia. 34mm / 1.3" Outer Dia. 32mm / 1.3" Inner Dia. 28mm / 1.1" Length 95mm / 3.7" Features: Fit for: Sanyo/ for Hitachi/for Panasonic/for...

Toshiba – 28mm to 32mm Vacuum Cleaner Hose Adapter Converter for $1.99
Toshiba – 28mm to 32mm Vacuum Cleaner Hose Adapter Converter for $1.99
  1. Purchased March 9 – loaded it up with documents to take with me for a month long trip in April so I could work on my laptop with files saved from my desktop PC. The drive stopped working when it was only 30 days old on April 9. Apparently this is a common issue for this unit because when I Googled how to fix it there were hundreds of pages on the subject. I’m now back in my office and was hoping that when I plugged it in to the desktop PC it might suddenly begin working – that maybe the issue was with my laptop port – no such luck – the lights don’t even come on and I cannot access the files at all or even follow some of the fixes, like: rename the drive letter, reinstall the o/s, reformat the drive.And, oh by the way, the last return date was April 9! The same day it stopped working!

  2. I have a couple Canvio drives in this exact size. one failed after several years of service. These new drives are horrible. At first I thought I just got a bad one (It happens) so I sent for a replacement. The new one is just as bad as the first. I get about 20 gigs transfered into it and the throughput drops off . I am not sure if it is due to heat or what, but it never increased in speed even after letting sit for an hour. (both drives)

  3. Reply
    librarian's daughter
    July 4, 2018 at 12:00 am

    It shouldn’t take several seconds to backup a 4-megabyte photo. So I recorded how long it took to write a thousand files, each containing 100 megabytes of random numbers. For comparison, I did the same thing on the old Acorndata drive that this Canvio was bought to replace, and here are graphs showing the differences (mind the different vertical scales). Writing to the old Acorndata never took so much as 5 seconds, while writing to the Canvio took over 20 seconds about 1% of the time, and once took over 80 seconds. (The mean times were 2.8 seconds for the old Acorndata and 3.7 seconds for the new Canvio.) If you Google “why is my canvio so slow” (without the quotation marks), you’ll see that other people have this same problem.

  4. I purchased this drive on April 26th. It has since died, roughly 5 weeks ago. Toshiba offered a replacement, but I’d lose my data, AND they won’t extract the data for me. They don’t offer such service. I have to spend a lot of money to have a basicly new drive completely dismantled to extract the informtion. Toshiba wants to send me a replacement (after I send them mine with or without data) on what is going to cost me a small fortune. The loss of the information, if it can’t be recovered, is priceless to me, because this is what I used to backup family photos, videos, all iPad and iPhones etc. I couldn’t possibly be more unhappy. Over 30 years in this business, and in my time I have seen some failed drives, but I have never had an external HDD die in such a short timeframe. The one time I choose to buy an external HDD for my home, and trust to put my information on it for “safe keeping”, and it dies and 15+ years worth of information is currently gone, and I do not yet know how much can be recovered. Don’t put your trust in this drive.P.S. This drive sat stationary since it has been connected. There has been no way of jarring, and no way for the item to fall, as it sits behind the PC on a cold floor in my den. I turned my PC monitor on and my icons wouldn’t load unless I unlpugged the external drive. This was the initial start to what would eventually prove to simply be the external HDD. No drive access, and stays busy. I took the drive to the shop and hooked it to a work PC before any extensive troubleshooting. Same behavior, as well as the drive always staying busy and never allowing access. Yes, it has a drive letter and all necessary steps have been taken to determine the problem. Everyone please type in “Toshiba Basics HDD” and see how many topics automatically come up in the search engine with all of the issues people are having with this drive.

  5.  UPDATE: The drive was less than 2 weeks old and was never transported when it went faulty. Thousands of files are gone and unrecoverable even after extensive $ spent on specialized recovery. No help or contact from Toshiba whatsoever, overall a cheap and useless product. Had 4-5 WD drives over years that never went faulty, unless you simply don’t care about your data DO NOT purchase one of Toshibas drives. I will never support them or a single product they produce again.Making a very very strange clicking sound and is not letting me move files to another drive. I have 4 paying clients work on this that is currently in limbo. May be recovered, may not, but not something that should ever have to be worried about with one of these drives. Get yourself a WD and don’t go through this stress.

  6. I bought this unit to use for video editing on my new Mac Mini.Initially, I connected it with a USB C cable that I had laying around. The transfer speeds were disheartening to the point I started thinking about plan B (37.7 MB/s write and 40.8 MB/s read).Luckily, instead of returning the SSD, I tried the cable that came with it. Connection to the USB port yielded much better speeds (419.8 MB/s write and 426.4 MB/s read).Finally, using a Thunderbolt 3 port, I got speeds that should work for my intended use (920.2 MB/s write and 950.2 MB/s read).

  7. There’s a lot of nonsense in the reviews, so I’m going to give you some facts. Feel free to do some research to verify what I’m saying. This is already a wall of text so I won’t go into too much detail. (At the end there’s an update about my only problem with this particular model and a simple technique for recovering data when the internal drive is still good.)1) EVERY hard drive manufacturer has failures. EVERY last one. Some are DOA, some take a month or more. It depends on your use. Moving parts break. Vents clog. Chips fry. Boards crack. I tried finding good data, but [statistics jargon]. Commonly reported rates, industry wide are in the 2-5% failure range with some lines doing better or worse. Personally, I’ve had a great experience with these.1b) No matter how good, all hard drives eventually die. Count it a win if you can use it until it’s too small and slow to be worth keeping. (When that happens, don’t forget to secure erase the drive before recycling it.)1c) People are more likely to complain than praise. Any drive you research will have fewer good user reviews than bad. (See #8 & 9 below.)1d) Smaller manufacturers get bought out by larger ones. Last year’s high-end product may now harbor a low-end drive. Seriously. CYA. Find manufacturers you trust and give them your loyalty.2) Every USB hard drive, thumb drive, etc. works on Windows, Mac and Linux. There are a few specialty proprietary devices, especially for professional and enterprise equipment, but consumer equipment works on both. Reformat it if you need to. Check it on all your devices before using it (technical reasons).2b) ExFAT is the usual suspect for cross-platform file sharing. It’s not great. It has nothing to hinder data loss (like journaling) and, in my experience, Macs sometimes choke on it. Consider a reputable cross-platform file driver and stick with NTFS or HFS+. Check your drive on all the platforms before using it (technical reasons). If you’re using it for backups, only use it for backups. If it’s for TimeMachine on a Mac, let TimeMachine reformat it and take it over completely.2c) Check the options when you buy it and check again in your cart. There are multiple sizes, styles and “support” options. Make sure you’re ordering what you think you are. Seriously. I’ve seen plenty of reviews by people who are really complaining that they ordered the wrong thing. And watch the price when you change options. Check it again in the cart before you check out.3) Don’t move your data – copy it. And save your old drive until your sure the new one is good. Feel free to abuse your new device, perform surface scans, etc. as often as you want when you get it. It’s called a burn in. If the drive’s mechanics are good, software will watch for failing sectors later (look up S.M.A.R.T.).3b) This particular drive isn’t an SSD, but since I claim to be telling you everything about hard drives… SSDs don’t need scans and should not be defragged. It’s actually bad for them.4) Get an online backup service, preferably a reputable one with a zero-knowledge policy, like SpiderOak or Carbonite. That means the provider can’t access your data even if they wanted to. It’s called security. Hang on to your old drive until your files finish backing up (in case of a failure). Depending on your service, it may not take very long. (Some services check your data to avoid uploading the same data twice.)5) Electronic equipment, no matter how rugged or solid-state it claims to be, no matter what the ads say, is not intended to be thrown, dropped, sat on, magnetized, electrocuted, submerged, burned, microwaved, or implanted into living beings. It’s certainly not meant to be thrown, left in the rain, dropped in the pool, etc. You do that and it breaks. You lose data. Products actually intended for this behavior are expensive. Water resistant is not submersible. Submersible has limits. Shock resistant does not mean it’s ok to drop it.6) Don’t use the included backup software, backup service, or built-in password protection. You are not paying for these things. If they were that good, they would be sold independently. If they are, what you have is an ad designed to trick you into using a service you won’t bother to cancel. Get your own service. (See #4.)6b) The first thing you should do is reformat the drive, even if it came formatted. It doesn’t take long. Just do it.7) Portable is good, but if your laptop comes with an external mouse and keyboard, two external drives, a hub… it’s not portable anymore. SD cards are pretty cheap and more durable for travel. They’re also faster. Keep your drive safe and bring copies. Unless, of course you need a lot of space. In that case get a second drive and bring copies. If your data is that important, protect it.8) Think of the stupidest person at your job and assume that every review is written by them. Seriously, I’ve known professional techs I wouldn’t trust to plug in a keyboard. Some of them made a lot of money. I have DECADES of tech experience. I also have a bunch of educational and professional credentials. Of course, I may also be a small pink bunny. You don’t know. Don’t listen to people on the internet, including me. Look for respected technical sites (I don’t think I’m allowed to list any here) and find consensus. Ask what the worst outcome is if the writer is a moron or troll.9) When checking the reviews, check what the 1-star reviews say. Are they bitter or factual? Drives fail? Did the company treat them well? Are they actually complaining about Amazon or a 3rd party seller?9b) 12% of the reviews here are 1-star. A quick survey shows me at least half of them are by people that don’t know as much about computers as their friends tell them they do. Half of the rest are actually complaining about other stuff. Toshiba’s return policies look like they could use some work though, so use your 30-days to burn it in and back it up.TLDR I’ve been using The Toshiba Canvio line since it came out and I still have and use my original drive. I’ve used them professionally, as have people I know in a variety of fields. I’ve personally owned at least 6 and known many others with them. In all that time I’ve had exactly one problem (see below). When asked for my professional recommendation, it’s my go to. Lately, I’ve been looking for a higher capacity drive (Macs and laptops are port-deprived), but I keep coming back here.UPDATE: I had my first problem, an old 1TB I’ve had so long I can’t find a record of when I bought it. The light was on but the system didn’t even know it was there. The fix? I pried open the case and unplugged the sliver of electronics connecting the internal drive’s connector (SATA) to the outside socket (USB-B). Then I plugged it back in and reassembled the drive. FWIW, it’s called reseating. It works on anything with a cord and ranks up there with restarting the system for magical fixes.BONUS: No guarantees, but if that sliver of electronics is bad, you may be able to access the drive inside with a new housing or SATA to USB adapter kit. I think I paid around $40 for mine. Opening the case carefully is probably more difficult than using the gear, but there are a number of reputable forums where you can get help using it.

  8. The external SSD is very fast with Macbook Pro 2018. Both read and write speed reached 940M bytes/s in my tests. Tried two USB cables, the one came with the package, and an Amazon Basic USB Type C to USB Type C 3.1 Gen 2. Both cables worked as expected.Almost 2 times faster than my Samsung T5.Copied more than 500G photos to the drive. Unlike claimed by others, it didn’t run hot.It is based on the QLC technology. Although it is very fast with its nvme interface, it is still slow when you write large files. Not recommended for some tasks such as video editing.Here are some speed test results tested on my Macbook Pro 20181. ExFATRead/Write: 920M/940M2. APFS, encryptedRead/Write: 700M/720M3. HPFS+, encryptedRead/Write: 850M/850M

  9. Foreword:USB is such a confusion standard, I’ll categorize it as follows( year 2020 ):USB 4(draft) = Thunderbolt 3 = 40GbpsUSB 3.2 Gen 2×2 = USB 3.2 = SuperSpeed USB 20Gbps = 20GbpsUSB 3.2 Gen 2 = USB 3.1 Gen 2 = USB 3.1 = SuperSpeed USB 10Gbps = 10GbpsUSB 3.2 Gen 1 = USB 3.1 Gen 1 = USB 3.0 = SuperSpeed USB = 5GbpsSo what we take here is an external SSD using USB 3.2 Gen 2(USB 3.1 old name) or simply call it 10Gbps as transfer speed.Review:The SSD is made of Aluminium as chassis and ruber on sides, there is a plastic band across the device as decorative with this SSD name and spec on it. there is only one USB-C 2 USB-C cable, with a USB-C 2 USB-A adapter on it. I tried shake it, no moving parts inside, And it’s a bit on heavy side as of external SSD.It’s a world that technology keep shifting and changing, one thing keep evolving constantly is the pursuit of speed, or more precisely: transfer speed.Since the era of NVME SSD, we have quite a lot selection of internal SSD speed range from 10-32Gbps (real world 3500MB/s). But the external storage always lack behind.Crucial is one of the first kind release 10Gbps product while other brand like Samsung and Sandisk still sell 5Gbps product for the same price.I tested mine with both native connection to MacBook Pro with thunderbolt3 using USB 3.1 and through USB 3.0 hub, it’s perfectly picked up in system management page and test result perfectly matching the tech specs.USB 3.1 – 10Gbps – 920-960 MB/s in real world file transferUSB 3.0 – 5Gbps – 420-430 MB/s in real world file transferI even tried using accompany USB-C to USB-A adapter and a USB-A to USB-C adapter to connect and reach the sam 10Gbps result, so it’s USB 3.1 definitely a speed bump over USB 3.0.I tried a backup using Time Machine of 100G system to it, total time is 2 hours. the SSD surface barely feels the warm.But to my surprise, this SSD doesn’t come with any LED indicator, so you don’t know if it’s work or not. consider it take such a big footprint on case, it’s almost unacceptable that there is no working condition LED.Tl;DR:Pros: Fast 10Gbps, $ for value, sleek design, sturdy build quality, 3 years warrantyCons: No LED indicator, a little big large compare to Samsung, only one USB-C cable w/ USB-A adapter, no sheath for protection.

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