Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir is simplistic scent that’s greatest summarized by being a honeyed amber with vanillic sweetness that begins off within the background and will get sweeter and extra sugary (bordering on gourmand) because the drydown approaches. Maison Francis Kurkdjian (MFK) describes Grand Soir’s notes with out delineating whether or not they’re prime, coronary heart, or base notes, however right here they’re within the order MFK lists them:
- tonka bean, which MFK describes as a “gourmand aspect evokes a barely vanilla-scented and sweetened shortbread tart”
- vanilla amber accord, which MFK describes as combining cistus labdanum (“heat, resinous, animal aspects”) with vanillin (“candy, fragrant compound); it is a fashionable accord utilized in fragrances, which is commonly complemented by resinous notes, like benzoin and incense, together with tonka bean
- benzoin, which MFK describes as “candy vanilla, with a gourmand caramel impact, honeyed, syrupy” and suggests that is a part of the bottom notes
- ciste labdanum, which MFK describes as both “fragrant, resinous and woody cistus oil” (from steam dstillation) or “balsamy, pyrogenic and resinous” (extraction by way of risky solvents), typically used within the “coronary heart and base of a perfume”
The opening jogged my memory of candy, orange blossoms–there was a bouquet of citrus blooms there, regardless of there being no floral notes within the fragrance and it appeared very uncommon to get that within the opening in any respect. The entire of my yard has that scent when all of the native citrus timber bloom, and it was undoubtedly scent-adjacent, simply a lot sweeter, bordering on sugary, cupcake-like vanilla sweetness.
This part lasted for 5 to 10 minutes earlier than shedding these blossoms and changing into a honeyed amber, which learn sweeter however a headier, richer sweetness. There was the suggestion of spice and heat, however they have been fleeting in an inhale, presumably even a figment of my creativeness on account of in search of extra depth and nuance within the total scent!
There wasn’t loads of change between the primary hour and the following 4 hours; it was heat, drizzled honey with a wealthy, resinous high quality that was candy however not gourmand-level sugary or candy. The vanilla got here to the forefront within the fifth hour and grows stronger for the length, so the scent turned sweeter and nearly sugary because the vanilla pushed ahead.
For testing, I bought a 2ml glass spray vial of the scent, and I used roughly half of the vial for every put on take a look at, which was utilized to the underside and topside of my wrist space on my left arm. I take advantage of an unscented moisturizer previous to making use of the scent as that is additionally my swatching arm (aka, extremely parched at any given second) as I discovered scent didn’t maintain properly right here in any other case. It was long-lasting (over 10 hours and nonetheless detectable as a skin-scent) with reasonable sillage for the primary two to a few hours after which wore extra intently following that.
Subjectively, the scent was nice and gratifying to put on, but it surely was overly candy and bordering on gourmand at occasions, which is sweeter than I usually put on; I are likely to desire ambers with heavier woods, smoke, and spice and with much less potent of a honey be aware. I’ll go for sweetness at occasions, but it surely’s extra of a fleeting temper than a part of a routine. I do know many readers take pleasure in extra gourmand scents, so for individuals who typically discover amber-centered fragrances too woody or too smoky, the honeyed sweetness of this one would possibly make it extra approachable.
- 0.27 fl. oz. (x3) for $140
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