Not for the primary time, Virginie Viard used a Chanel present to pay homage to a late legend. On Tuesday, two years since paying tribute to Karl Lagerfeld in her first solo present for the home, Viard introduced the Chanel’s Cruise 2021-22 assortment with a refined nod to Stella Tennant. The late Chanel muse and supermodel—who memorably wore the home’s notorious micro-bikini in 1995—had a penchant for daring jewellery; it was her refusal to take away her septum ring for a British Vogue shoot that caught the eye of Steven Meisel, who would turn into one in all her closest collaborators. Viard went as an alternative with lip rings and drew inspiration from Tennant’s rebellious spirit.
The present’s movie location—Carrières de Lumières, a cavernous former limestone quarry in Southern France—was of utmost significance this season. It’s the place Jean Cocteau, together with Pablo Picasso and Jean Marais, filmed Testomony of Orpheus, Cocteau’s final movie. (The poet and filmmaker had a bond with Coco Chanel, who costumed productions of his performs Antigone, Oedipus Rex, and Orpheus.) To Viard, the movie is all about “simplicity, precision, and poetry,” which is why she caught to black and white. (Aside from some purple marabou feathers.)
Between Tennant and Cocteau, Viard was pondering punk. That manifested in fishnets, studs, spiky hair, and even emblem tees, that includes the up-and-coming mannequin Lola Nicon. (The teased hair additionally added a touch of scene.) The poetry got here by within the finale, when fashions like Steinberg, Mica Argañaraz, Anna Ewers, and Jill Kortleve set a flight of doves free.