Rebecca Dayan traces her hand throughout a glass case containing Elsa Peretti’s best hits at Tiffany & Co.’s flagship retailer in New York Metropolis. The actress pauses and bends over the brightly lit show to get a better take a look at the items that cemented the jewellery designer’s legacy and have turn into a number of the model’s bestsellers: delicate Diamonds by the Yard necklaces, a sculptural Bone Cuff in 18 karat gold, the basic Open Coronary heart pendant. “While you put on her jewellery, you may really feel how tactile all the pieces is,” Dayan says, tucking her quick brown bob, hidden below a baseball cap, behind her ears whereas she continues scanning the case. “There may be an natural side to her means of constructing.”
Dayan would know. To arrange to play Peretti within the upcoming Netflix limited series Halston, she spent the previous 12 months and a half soaking in each side of the Italian designer’s life—finding out her historical past as an artisan, sporting her jewellery and the fanciful designs that Roy Halston Frowick, to whom she was a muse and good buddy, made for her. Peretti famously started modeling for Halston throughout his early days as a designer, then used her personal craftsmanship expertise to design the off-kilter bottle for Halston’s first fragrance. By 1971, she was designing bijoux for Halston; Tiffany & Co. took discover shortly thereafter, bringing her on as an in-house designer three years later. Peretti’s journey in jewelry-making is a central storyline within the Halston biopic, which traces the rise and fall of the designer and his Manufacturing facility-esque band of misfit artists, fashions, and vogue folks. In actual fact, Peretti’s first line within the present is a cheeky nod to a life spent on the workbench—Halston, played by Ewan McGregor, is in his studio with Dayan-as-Peretti and the style illustrator Joe Eula (David Pittu), surveying a costume that he finds boring. “What if we added a little bit of chunky jewellery?” Peretti asks.
Inspecting Peretti’s jewellery at Tiffany with Dayan is like plunging headlong right into a vault of tales from the present’s set. The actress picks up a sterling silver scorpion necklace, recalling the best way it unclasps in two items, which initially led the present’s costume designer Jeriana San Juan to consider she’d damaged it. The cuff could be resized as soon as it’s “hotter,” Dayan says, which she found whereas filming in New York Metropolis (“You’ll be able to tighten it a teeny bit, however it’s a must to wait,” she provides). A mesh necklace reminds the 36-year-old of the scene during which she and Halston are creating Liza Minnelli’s vibrant yellow wedding ceremony swimsuit. And a gold bra product of delicate 18-karat gold mesh, which Peretti herself styled beneath a white collared shirt with a string of Diamonds by the Yard when she designed it within the Seventies, was Dayan’s favourite factor to put on of all.
The actress, who was born in a South of France city known as Saint-Paul de Vence earlier than transferring to Good at 14, then Paris at 17, has a lot in frequent with Peretti. They share backgrounds in design, vogue, and artwork (Dayan went to art school and was “at all times making issues,” together with mud sculptures and beaded jewellery, as a toddler). They each exude the cool, frosted chicness of European girls. And as Dayan spent extra time researching Peretti’s life, she discovered much more similarities. Regardless of by no means assembly Peretti in particular person (the designer handed away a month after Halston started filming), Dayan explored archival materials to get to know her—studying interviews, watching documentaries, and selecting up particulars from her costars, who have been additionally doing their justifiable share of finding out.
“There have been all these bizarre little connections,” she says. “I’d go to [Halston director] Daniel Minahan’s home, and he had all these books and magazines from that point. There’s this photograph of [Peretti] and Salvador Dalí collectively, which was taken in a Spanish city known as Cadaques, the place Dalí had a home—my mother and father even have a home there. Elsa studied glassblowing, and I grew up occurring discipline journeys to a historic glassblowing city known as Biot in France. Clearly, I realized so much about her course of, however I believe the method of an artist was already one thing that I perceive.”
Dayan’s mother and father, and her mom specifically, have been the primary to introduce her to appearing and filmmaking. At 14 years outdated, she and her mother watched the 1985 Martin Scorsese film After Hours—within the early aughts, that’s what teenage Dayan thought New York Metropolis would appear to be. Though a visit to Manhattan two years later would show to her that issues had modified a bit, she nonetheless was taken with town and moved to the US to pursue modeling and appearing. Now, decrease Manhattan is her residence—simply minutes from Halston’s atelier, mirrored Midtown workplace, and posh condo, all of that are portrayed in lavish type on the Netflix present.
The forged and crew started filming in February of 2020, however have been shut down as a result of Covid on March 12 (Liza Minnelli’s birthday, Dayan notes). The actress and her costars spent the subsequent six months doing desk reads over Zoom, having dinners at Minahan’s home, and visiting the real-life places featured in Halston to maintain the fireplace alive. They returned to rehearsals on the finish of September, and resumed filming within the midst of the pandemic’s second wave.
“It was actually loopy, getting examined three to 4 occasions per week, sporting a masks and a protect, consuming alone in your trailer, not being actually in a position to hang around after,” Dayan recollects. “At first, they have been actually freaked out, in order that they have been dealing with expertise as if we have been product of glass. As quickly as they known as ‘minimize,’ they’d take away us from set. And on prime of that, you’re strolling round with all these items on you on a regular basis, and it’s exhausting to attach and get into the efficiency—you are so separate. It bought a bit of smoother after some time, however at first it was like, Whoa, that is such a bizarre means of filming.”
“It is particularly bizarre once you’re filming one thing that takes place within the time interval just like the Seventies, the place all the pieces is unfastened and all people is free,” she provides. “However it bonded the forged in a means that we would not have below different circumstances. The complicity between the 5 of us was important. And after we stopped filming, I actually missed them. It’s not that always that you just work with individuals and create that bond. That was undoubtedly a spotlight in all of that—not solely did we make a terrific present, however I gained some buddies.”
The connections between the Halston crew are palpable within the present—particularly within the closing scene between Peretti and Halston, which takes place at Studio 54. However for all of the drama and pleasure the plotline holds, the costumes are equally—if no more—thrilling. Throughout filming, Dayan wore a mixture of authentic Halston items, clothes remade by costume designer San Juan, and classic outfits from the interval. That royal blue, tie-dyed caftan she wore in Halston’s first present was a reconstruction, however the cashmere costume and cardigan she donned throughout her arrival on the French airport to attend the Battle of Versailles was the actual factor.
The jewellery, nevertheless, stays a quietly dominant characteristic in Halston: When you spy a cuff right here or a string of diamonds there, Peretti’s indelible mark has been made. That’s simply what occurs with the gold mesh bra—Dayan’s favourite Peretti piece—which she spies out of the nook of her eye, on her means out of Tiffany. “Wait, that’s it, there it’s!” she cries, getting so near the case her nostril virtually touches it. “It’s so delicate, and it doesn’t simply look fairly. There’s one thing a bit of bit extra to these items, I believe.” As we stroll out the door, she says, laughing, “After I say Elsa bought me by way of 2020, I imply it.”